Nine and a half centuries of royal power in one fortress: a Norman keep, a prison, a place of execution, a mint, a zoo and the home of the Crown Jewels. It is expensive, crowded and absolutely worth it if you do it right. And in the Jewel House, behind the glass, sits a diamond dug out of South Africa that tells a story the official tour rarely tells.
William the Conqueror began the Tower after his invasion of 1066 to hold down the conquered city of London. His great stone keep, the White Tower, still stands at the centre. Over the centuries the fortress grew into a royal palace, an armoury, the Royal Mint, a record office and, for 600 years, a zoo, the Royal Menagerie, whose lions and other animals were moved to London Zoo in the 1830s.
It is best remembered as a prison and a place of death. Two of Henry VIII's wives, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, and the young Lady Jane Grey were beheaded inside its walls. Princes disappeared here, traitors were tortured here, and prisoners carved their names into the stone of the Beauchamp Tower, where you can still read them.
Kept in the Jewel House since the 17th century, the Crown Jewels are a working collection still used at coronations and the State Opening of Parliament. You pass on a moving walkway past St Edward's Crown, used at every coronation since 1661, the Imperial State Crown and the Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross. No photography is allowed inside. The queue is worst between late morning and mid-afternoon in summer.
The largest stone in the Sovereign's Sceptre is Cullinan I, also called the Great Star of Africa, of about 530 carats. It was cut from the Cullinan diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, dug out of the Premier Mine near Pretoria in 1905, in what was then the British-ruled Transvaal, three years after the South African War. The colonial government of the Transvaal bought the stone and presented it to King Edward VII in 1907. Cullinan II sits in the Imperial State Crown.
The diamond was found on land taken from Africans, and mined by African workers on low wages and in harsh conditions. In South Africa there have been repeated calls for the Cullinan stones to be returned. Nearby in the Jewel House, the Koh-i-Noor, taken from the Punjab after Britain annexed it in 1849, is claimed by India, Pakistan and others. The Tower displays these stones as royal treasures; how they came to London is part of the history of empire.
Read the background on our pages Britain and South Africa and Benin Bronzes, Asante gold and African treasures in British museums.
Every night for centuries, the Chief Yeoman Warder and an armed escort have locked the gates of the Tower in the Ceremony of the Keys. A small number of visitors can watch. It used to be almost free; the price has risen, but it is still cheap for what it is. Tickets are released in advance and sell out quickly, so book through Historic Royal Palaces as soon as booking opens for your dates.
At £37 the Tower is one of London's most expensive sights, and one of the few really worth the money: you get a castle, a prison, a palace, the Crown Jewels and some of the best storytellers in Britain in one ticket. Skip it if you are on a tight budget: our free things to do in London guide has plenty of alternatives. Otherwise, go early and give it a full morning.
Many London tours include the Tower with skip-the-line entry. Entrance fees are included in the tour price; tips are not included but are always welcome.
More treasures of empire, and the arguments over them.
The best of the city for nothing.
Where to stay and what to see.
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